I was born and raised in France and trained as a perfumer there, but I moved to New York in the 1990s so I could study American fragrance. Until then, all perfume was still crafted in the French tradition-scents tended to be deep and a little dirty, with dark and powerful base notes and a lingering trail.
But in 1995, Estée Lauder introduced Pleasures and inverted this approach. Its green, airy bouquet is designed to make an immediate impression, not to cast
a net of seduction. Soon enough, American brands started creating more relaxed scents that matched their casual aesthetics. Instead of a complex base, these perfumes have extremely faceted top notes that grab you right away. They're fresh and impulsive, which is something anyone with a nose can appreciate.